Last Updated on 04/08/26 by Rose Palmer
Despite being at the “End of the World” in South America, the city of Ushuaia, Argentina, gets a lot of traffic during the warmer weather season. It’s the jumping-off point for cruises to Antarctica, arguably the more accurate end of the world.
My first visit to Ushuaia was a single-day port stop on a Princess cruise itinerary aboard the Sapphire Princess, which included South America and Antarctica. More recently, I spent three more days in Ushuaia before boarding the Ponant L ‘Austral on an extended 18-day cruise through Antarctica.
Situated in a picturesque setting, Ushuaia is framed by glacier-capped mountains on one side and the Beagle Channel on the other. Add to it the nearby Tierra del Fuego National Park, and Isla Martillo with its penguin colonies, and I had more than enough scenic opportunities to keep me and my camera happy.
The city center, where most of the hotels, shops, and restaurants were located, was compact and easily walkable. Without a car, though, seeing anything outside the city required a tour.
I found plenty of things to do in Ushuaia in three days
I arrived in Ushuaia a few days before my Ponant Antarctica cruise after touring the Patagonia region in Argentina and Chile. I was happy to discover that there was plenty to do during the three days I was there.
Wildlife cruise on the Beagle Channel from Ushuaia
The 240-kilometer-long Beagle Channel is one of three navigable passages at South America’s tip between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. The other two are the Straits of Magellan to the north and the infamous Drake Passage to the south. Charles Darwin saw his first glaciers here when he sailed on the HMS Beagle’s second voyage to survey the area.
This region is rich with wildlife, which is why I chose a Beagle Channel wildlife cruise as a Princess excursion when the ship docked in Ushuaia for the day. Our catamaran for the Penguin Rookery Navigation excursion was waiting for us at the same pier where the Princess ship was docked, making it very convenient.
The 5-hour cruise took us down the Beagle Channel toward the Atlantic. On the way, we made photo stops at Isla de los Pajaros, the home of a colony of Imperial cormorants, and the larger rock Isla de los Lobos to observe basking sea lions. The Beagle Channel lighthouse was another popular stop where more birds and sea lions called home.
Our ultimate goal was Isla Martillo, or Hammer Island. This was the protected home of Magallanic and Gentoo penguin colonies. The Rocky beach was covered with penguins, and I was super excited to see them in the wild for the first time. (Later in the trip, I got to see more penguins on the Falkland Islands).
The catamaran was able to pull up extremely close to shore, giving us great close-up views of the penguin highjinx on the beach. We spent about an hour watching the social interactions. It was interesting to observe the different behaviours between the two penguin species.
With the white circle around their face and the pink color around their eyes, I thought the Magallanic penguins had a happy, comical look to them. In contrast, the Gentoo’s, with their orange beaks and feet, looked a little more refined in their black and white tuxedos.
Then, it was back to Ushuaia and the ship.
Tiera Del Fuego and the End of the World train
To explore west of Ushuaia, I booked a Tiera del Fuego and the End of the World Train tour via Get Your Guide. I met the tour in the center of the city, and from there it was a quick 20-minute drive to the train station.
The tourist train traveled the last seven kilometers of the train line that was once part of the penal colony that founded Ushuaia. Isolated on an island at the bottom of the world, there certainly was no place for prisoners to escape to.
Barely 10 minutes after setting off, we arrived at the Macarena Station for a 20-minute stop. It seemed like this was all about selling photos taken before boarding with the modern-day “prisoner” models. There was a small waterfall photo op as well.
As we continued for the next 5 kilometers into Tiara Del Fuego National Park, the train commentary described in detail the difficult life the convicts had in the early part of the 20th century. Prisoners were used to log the area, chopping down trees to build the prison, other buildings in town, and to provide essential firewood.
The broad fields of stumps that the convicts had cleared were still visible from the train. The prisoners and their logging train provided the never-ending fuel feeding the local plant, which heated and electrified the prison and nearby Ushuaia.
This forced labor happened every day, summer and winter. The train commentary shared interesting facts relating to the foundational history of Ushuaia. For me, though, the Disneyesque flavor distracted from the overall experience.
After the train ride, our tour continued into the drivable portion of the Tierra del Fuego park. 90% of the park has been left wild and completely undeveloped, so the number of overlooks was limited.
We made 20 to 30-minute scenic stops at the Visitor Center, at the viewpoint for Lake Roka, and at the end of Rt 3, the Pan American Highway. The on-and-off clouds and rain did not diminish the scenic beauty, especially when rainbows appeared. The day ended with a scenic view over the Beagle Channel, complete with a rainbow.
Beagle Flavours Tour
On this day, I chose a tour that let me explore the scenery east of the city. I was happy to discover that the Beagle Flavors tour I booked via Get Your Guide was very small, with only 5 guests.
After hotel pick-ups in the morning, the 4×4 took us up the Pan American Highway into the mountains. Our first stop was the Mirador del Valle Carbajal viewpoint with spectacular views of the Andes. It certainly helped that on this day the sun was shining.
The woods we drove through are a protected forest reserve (though that hasn’t stopped squatters from building shacks in the woods). Mid-morning, our guide pulled off the road onto a peaceful grassy bend along the river for a coffee, tea, and pastries break.
The soil here is thin, resulting in shallow roots, so even very large trees get knocked over easily in the 100 km/hour winds that often rise in this part of the world. The glade was littered with downed trees that had over 4-foot-wide root balls. In contrast with the tree litter, happy little buttercups added clusters of yellow sunshine in the grass. The location was quiet and tranquil, and was my favorite part of this tour.
We continued our drive to the Beagle Channel, heading toward Puerto Almanza. 60 families live in this modest village year-round in what locals call the king crab route. The townsfolk catch king crabs in the Beagle Channel and then serve them in their modest restaurants across the road from the beach.
Our lunch spot was outside of town at Akum restaurant, a slightly more upscale venue. The food was good, but I was disappointed we didn’t get king crab. Instead, we had a mussels starter, cohinoba fish main course, and flan for dessert. After lunch, there was the option for a 20-minute hike through the woods to a nearby waterfall.
The final highlight was a zodiac cruise to Isla Martillo to see the penguins. Even though I had done this before, I did not mind a repeat venture. This was not on the original itinerary, but when two of the other guests asked to do this, I tagged along.
From the harbor at Puerto Almanza, it was a quick 20-minute zodiac crossing to Isla Martillo. Because of its small size, the zodiac pulled up very close to shore, and with less than a dozen guests, everyone had room for closer-up photos and videos in the bow.
Blanketed in a sea of black and white, it was hard to distinguish the cormorants from the penguins on the rocky shore. As before, it was a treat to observe the penguin antics up close. Further down the beach, a colony of sea lions also lounged in the sun, mostly sleeping, but occasionally taking nips at each other.
Between the nice weather and the sights, I really enjoyed this tour.
Other things to do in Ushuaia
Besides the tours, I also had time to explore other sights in Ushuaia.
Walk the trail along the waterfront
I really enjoyed strolling along the shore in the early morning or late evening, when the long rays of the sun warmed the scenery and the mountains. I walked to the overlook at the Ancestors Viewpoint, looking out over the protected Natural Urban Reserve. This was especially pretty as the sun set behind me.
Saint Christopher shipwreck
Along the waterfront, the Saint Christopher shipwreck has become an iconic photo op of Ushuaia. The tugboat ran aground in 1957 and has been sitting there ever since. For me, its rusty and barnacle-covered hull was a photogenic spot at sunset.
The Ushuaia sign
The waterfront path led directly past this sign, which was another popular spot for tourist photos.
Shop for handmade crafts
Right next to the cruise ship dock is a brightly colored building that houses a variety of locally made handicrafts. I enjoyed browsing the varied products and bought a pretty penguin ornament as a souvenir.
Shop and eat along Ave. Saint Martin
Stretching for 15 blocks, Ave. Sait Martin was the main tourist thoroughfare in the center of Ushuaia. This is where most of the shops and many restaurants were located. At its eastern end, I discovered two of the city’s very interesting Maratime and Prison Museum.
Museo Marítimo y del Presidio de Ushuaia
Maritime and Prison Museum
This activity was a good way to spend a few rainy hours before boarding my ship. The original prison buildings have been preserved and restored to showcase a multidisciplinary museum. There were exhibits on local maratime history, Antarctica, the original native population, and an art gallery.
However, the most interesting section described the details of the former prison colony. I found it especially interesting to contrast a restored prison wing and compare it to one that was left intact without repairs. Initially, the prison was established in the early 1900s for serious repeat offenders. In the 1930’s, political prisoners were also sent here.
Yet despite the harsh weather and challenging living conditions, the prisoners were responsible for developing Ushuaia’s early infrastructure, without which the city would not be the success it is today.
Finding street art
It seemed like every corner in the city center was painted with some interesting mural or other.
Where to eat in Ushuaia
I know Argentina is known for its meat, but I am not a big beef eater. Instead, I looked for as many opportunities as I could to eat the local king crab, something I cannot easily find back home.
Ana and Juana
This great bakery and coffee shop had two locations in town, and both were very busy, deservedly so. I had a great cappuccino topped with cocoa and cinnamon, accompanied by the biggest almond croissant I’ve ever seen.
Dulces Pau
A block uphill from the crowds, this was a small, quiet spot for a cup of tea and a slice of orange poppy-seed pound cake. All their pastries looked really good, and the service was very nice.
Argentina is known for its meats, but I am not a big red meat eater. And in this location, I was much more interested in eating the local king crab, something I can’t easily get back home.
Maria Lola Resto
This upscale dinner restaurant came with expansive views over the harbor. I didn’t have a reservation, but since I went when they first opened, they were able to accommodate me.
The king crab linguine and recommended wine were tasty. I capped off the meal with a Dulce de Leche mousse.
El Viejo Marino
This is a highly rated, little, hole-in-the-wall type restaurant near the cruise ship dock. There was a short line of people waiting to get in when I arrived around 7:30 PM, though I only waited about 15 minutes.
I ordered the plate of plain king crab meat with a salad. The portion was very generous, but the meat would have tasted better with melted butter or a sauce.
Tia Elvira
Directly across the street from the cruise ship dock, this restaurant had the benefit of being open early for dinner. The king crab in wine and garlic sauce was good without overpowering the crab flavor. The service was also very personable.
Paso Garibaldi
This nice bistro was down the street from the Maratime Museum. The meal started with a complimentary demitasse of pumpkin curry soup and a basket of fresh, warm bread with black bean hummus. I chose the king crab pasta as my main course.
Where NOT to stay in Ushuaia
Nona Kate-Aunaisin
To be fair, the Nona Kate-Aunaisin wasn’t all bad; it just didn’t meet my needs. This was a holiday apartment rental, not a hotel, and it was easy to get to from the bus station and from the cruise ship pier.
The apartment was new, clean, bright, and roomy, especially for one person. My problem was that when I booked it, it listed a washer and dryer. After touring around Patagonia for three weeks, I knew I would want to do laundry before boarding the L’Austral for Antarctica. Unfortunately, this description was not accurate, and there was no washer and dryer.
I had other issues as well. An uncomfortable double bed where I could feel a metal bar running down the length of the mattress in the middle. Only two pillows that were flat and thin. A very small shower with barely a 15-inch opening between the shower doors, even though the bathroom was quite large. Very noisy streets with a lot of traffic outside the windows.
Communication with the facility was also difficult. I did not receive the check-in instructions until the day I was supposed to arrive. Fortunately, even though I was traveling, I had connectivity (not always the case) and received the info.
There were lots of WhatsApp notices and email notices, but they were clearly AI-generated. It took numerous emails to connect to a real person to try to get two more pillows, which I eventually received.I also resented having to post a video of the condition of the apartment before I left.
And, since this was not a hotel, I couldn’t leave my bags when I checked out, so I had to make other arrangements for the day until I could board the ship. If it weren’t for needing a washing machine (which I did not have), I would have booked one of the well-rated hotels in the center of town instead.
I really enjoyed my time exploring Ushuaia and its surroundings. This city may be at the “end of the world”, but it certainly wasn’t lacking in interesting things to do. When planning my trip, I found the Ushuaia tourism website quite useful.
Other related stories:
In Argentina Patagonia: Two Days in Los Glacieres National Park – The Best of Argentina’s Patagonia Region
Seeing Penguins in Punta Arenas: Two Days With the Punta Arenas Penguins
Three days in Torres del Paine: Three Days in Torres del Paine From a Non-Hiker’s Perspective
Thanks for visiting
Rose
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