Last Updated on 06/24/22 by Rose Palmer
Greece is known for its many sunny islands which make them a popular holiday destination. But before visiting some of the most beautiful Greek islands on my dream luxury sailing cruise, I decided to get over my jet lag with two very relaxing days on the lovely little island of Hydra.
My long anticipated cruise with Running On Waves was starting in Athens, and since it was also my first visit to this historic city, I wanted time to explore it at leisure without being tired or jet lagged. So, I chose to add 4 days to explore Athens after the cruise, and started instead with two days on the nearby island of Hydra.
Of the many Greek islands, little Hydra is special in that no motorized vehicles or even bicycles are allowed on the island. Foot power, donkeys and water taxis are the only means of transport. The island’s only major town, also called Hydra, is where I was planning my idyllic two days.
Getting from Hydra to Athens and back
Hydra is one of the Saronic group of islands, all of which are located relatively close to mainland Greece which makes them easy to get to by ferry from Athens.
I used the Ferryhopper website to choose and book my ferry tickets from the Athens Piraeus port to Hydra and back. There were a number of nonstop ferry departures each day so I chose the ones that best fit my schedule.
I also downloaded the Ferryhopper app on my phone so I could check in on line ahead of time and also get updates letting me know what gate the ferry left from. The app was also useful for getting and showing my e-tickets for boarding.
After landing at the Athens airport and going through customs, I took a taxi to the Piraeus port. The port is huge, so it helped to know where my ferry was leaving from so that the taxi driver could drop me off at the appropriate gate (E8 in my case). I grabbed my first authentic Greek lunch at one of the restaurants near the port as I waited for my ferry to arrive.
On the way to Hydra I took the Blue Ferries Flying Cat and for a few extra euros, upgraded to the business class cabin. This put me in the upper level cabin with lots of large bright windows and very few other passengers. It was a challenge not to doze off during the 90 minute ride and focus on the scenic views flying by.
For the trip back to Athens I booked the Blue Star Ferries Flying Dolphin, a slightly smaller ferry that whisked me back to Athens in 75 minutes.
My Hydra accommodations
Because of its close proximity to Athens, Hydra is a very popular destination. There are quite a few accommodation options in all price ranges, but by the time I started looking there was nothing decent available for the end of August dates I needed. Lesson learned – reserve a room early.
I took a chance and booked a studio with a brand new listing on Booking.com – the Ydra View Apartments. It was a quick 2 minute walk from the ferry landing to the apartment which was conveniently located in a building overlooking the harbor.
This ideal location made it very easy to walk to with my luggage. For accommodations located further up the hill in town, you will need to carry your luggage up flights of stairs or have one of the waiting donkeys take it up for you.
The studio apartment was lovely. It was quite spacious, was newly renovated, airconditioned and the location was perfect. I did have to carry my bag up a long flight of stairs to the second floor, but that was manageable.
I liked that I was only a few steps away from the many cafes and restaurants that line the harbor front. And since my room was at the back of the building, I did not have to worry about any possible street noise. The best part was that the ground floor of the building had a gelato shop – it doesn’t get much better than that.
My relaxing two days on Hydra
Despite its small size, quiet Hydra has had some large moments in history. In the 19th century the island became a successful and wealthy maritime hub. The many large mansions built by those sea captains are still visible on the hills surrounding the harbor.
Hydra’s fleet of ships with their experienced naval personnel played a critical role in the sea battles against the Turks during the Greek War of Independence. And as the new republic developed, little Hydra contributed four Prime Ministers and one President to the fledgling country.
But what really put Hydra on the global map in modern times was a Hollywood sex symbol in a bikini. Italian beauty Sophia Loren made her American film debut in the 1957 movie “Boy On a Dolphin” which was set and filmed in Hydra. Not long after, other wealthy entertainment personalities like Richard Burton, Mick Jagger and other big names started visiting Hydra which put this quiet little corner on the jet set map.
Things to do in Hydra
The wealthy still continue to come to Hydra. As I strolled along the waterfront during the cool of my first evening, I saw a number of very large, private yachts docked in the harbor next to small, colorful fishing boats that still had wet nets from that day’s catch.
For those that need activity, there are “sights” on Hydra, though most require some exertion and walking uphill. The Greeka.com website about Hydra gives a full list of museums and other sights. A map posted at the harbor also showed trekking routes into the hills for those interested in longer walks.
But the real attraction of Hydra for me was the Greek version of “La Dolce Vita” – people watching from one of the many harbor front cafes or just strolling the traffic free lanes, and of course, eating good Greek food.
Thanks to being jet lagged, I was up at sunrise (an unusual event for me) and started exploring the harbor. Despite the early hour, cafes were open and serving coffee and breakfast and the locals were already busily working.
Before the daily tourist activities started, the merchants were unloading boats and tying some of the contents onto donkeys for transport up the hills. I was glad to see that very large items were moved using electric hand dollies.
I spent my morning exploring the town, climbing uphill until my legs got tired. I just ambled, turning any which way since there was no way to get lost – the water and the boats in the marina were always in sight below me.
I had the narrow lanes to myself, except for an occasional local with a grocery bag in hand. While I was huffing and puffing from the climb, to them it was like an easy walk in the park even though some were much older than I.
I also passed by quite a few cats, laying lazily on a stoop or stair. They would raise their head a little, give me a quizzical look, and then go back to sleep. I am sure they were thinking how foolish I was exerting myself in the heat when a a rest and a nap made so much more sense.
Once the midday heat hit, I did succumb and went back to my airconditioned room for a much needed nap. It always takes me a few days to get over jet lag and to get my body on local time.
In the late afternoon, as it got cooler and the sun started setting, the awnings that cover the outdoor cafes came down and the table cloths came out. Lots more people came out too. It was too early yet for Greeks to have dinner, but plenty were enjoying a glass of wine or cocktails at one of the many cafes that line the harbor.
And there was also plenty of window shopping going on too. Hydra has its share of souvenir shops, but most stores were higher end selling jewelry or name brand fashion items.
I decided to take the 15 minute stroll along the seaside promenade to the nearby hamlet of Kamini. The town is still just a fishing village, and its little harbor was filled with colorful fishing boats.
When I reached the Castello Hydra restaurant, I knew I had found my perfect sunset dinner spot, and since it was early, I was able to get a table without a reservation. While I was enjoying a delicious meal and watching the sun drop below the horizon, others were still swimming at the nearby beach. Next time I come to Hydra, I will definitely make time to come here to swim and laze on the sun beds.
A visit to the Lazarus Kountouriotis Mansion
Feeling somewhat more rested and energetic, I spent my second morning on Hydra visiting the Lazaros Kountouriotis Mansion. It’s hard not to miss this ochre colored building on Hydra’s hillside high above the harbor.
Lazaros Kountouriotis was an extremely successful shipowner on Hydra who gave a lot of his wealth to back the Greek War of Independence which has turned him a Greek cultural hero. The mansion was built in 1780 and was the family home until it became a museum in 1979.
The rooms on the ground floor of the museum display the furniture and personal items of the Kountouriotis family.
The upper floor has exhibits from the Greece National Historical Museum. I was especially interested in displays of traditional costumes from the different regions of Greece.
Where to eat on Hydra
There is no lack of choices for places to sit along the harbor and grab a drink or a bite to eat. The entire harbor front is lined with cafes and restaurants. As is often the case, these establishment might be a little pricier than going up the street by a block or two, but the view certainly makes it worth it.
For a not so healthy breakfast, I grabbed some delicious baklava from the Fournos Bakery. It’s located at the end of a little alleyway just past Tompazi street and it is well worth searching out.
My favorite meal was at Techne Restaurant which is on the walkway toward Kamani. The restaurant is in a quiet setting with great sea views and offers Greek dishes with a modern flair.
For dinner with a lovely sunset, the Castello Restaurant in Kamini couldn’t be beat. Not only did it have great views, but the food was excellent as well.
I didn’t actually “do” much in Hydra which was just fine. I strolled, I took photos and people watched while sitting at a café. The island gave me exactly what I was looking for – two days on Hydra to recharge in a charming environment with lots of good food and pretty scenery.
I will definitely be adding Hydra to my itinerary again the next time I visit Greece.
Other stories about Greece you may like:
Sailing the Greek islands with Running On Waves: Release Your Inner Jackie O On a Luxury Sailing Holiday in Greece
Discover the best islands in Greece: Cruising in Style to the Most Beautiful Islands in Greece
Best historic sites on the island of Kos: A History Lover’s Guide to One Day in Kos, Greece
How to visit Mt. Athos: How to Visit Mt. Athos – Even If You Are Female
Thanks for visiting.
Rose
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