Last Updated on 06/24/22 by Rose Palmer
There are over 200 islands to discover in Greece so how to decide which ones to visit?
For my first experience of the Greek islands I chose a small ship cruise with the beautiful boutique sailing ship Running On Waves which let me easily sample seven beautiful Greek island destinations.
What I really loved about my Greek island cruise was the chance to appreciate just how different each Greek island really is. The common image of a Greek island is whitewashed houses with blue trim, which was indeed what I saw on the Cycladic islands of Mykonos and Santorini.
However, the Island of Kos had a totally different look and vibe. With its collection of fine sandy beaches, Kos is is just as much a holiday destination as its Cycladic island neighbors. But the multistory resorts lining the beaches here along with the apartment buildings in town, had a more modern and boxy look to them, much like the resorts I had seen on the coast of nearby Turkey.
There are a lot of things to do in Kos in one day
Besides its beaches, Kos is also popular because of its many sightseeing options, especially for those interested in Greek archeological sites and history (like me). The island of Kos was first settled as far back as the 14th century BCE. In fact, Koans, as the people of Kos are called, make an appearance as far back as Homer’s Iliad where they fought for the Greeks in the Trojan War.
The original town of Kos, which is where I was spending my day, was established in the 4th century BCE, and has numerous excavated sites spanning much of the islands ancient history.
However, the island has historically been prone to earthquakes with the most recent being in 2017. Building and rebuilding and rebuilding some more means that the very old and the new coexist in dubious, if unrelated, harmony.
Green open spaces protecting ancient piles of rocks are surrounded by contemporary balconied apartment blocks, cafes and restaurants, and heavily trafficked streets. Modern Kos moves on within sight of the quiet spaces where its ancestors once thrived over 2000 years ago.
My one day in Kos
On this day in port, I had about seven hours to discover the mysteries of Kos – long enough to amble through town and explore the archeological sites within easy reach of the harbor. As you can see from the map below, there are quite a few historic sites in the heart of Kos town, all within an easy walk from the harbor.
Neratzia castle
I started my sightseeing with Neratzia Castle built by the Knights of St. John since the high ramparts of the castle were close to where the ship’s tender dropped me off. This castle and its sister version across the straight in Bodrum, Turkey were built in the late 14th century to protect their respective harbors.
The castle was built with a combination of an outer and an inner fortified wall combined with massive towers. The knights used what was available on hand to build the fortifications – they quarried local stone which they combined with scavenged marble fragments from the ancient ruins still left on the island. The castle courtyard is littered with remnants of building material that clearly came from other sources.
The castle looks the way you would expect a medieval castle to look – huge, thick walls with crenelated parapets and supporting round towers in the corners. It reminded me of the sandcastles children might built on the beaches nearby.
There isn’t much information on the site about the castle or its history, but because it is so well preserved, it makes for an interesting visit.
From the castle I walked past the famous Hippocrates plane tree which is supposedly 2400 years old. Hippocrates is called the father of medicine and legend says that he planted this tree and instructed his students underneath it.
The Agora
Just a little further on I explored the ruins of the ancient agora, the heart of the original city of Kos. Over the intervening centuries, numerous earthquakes and rebuilding have covered over much of the ancient origins of Kos. Yet, what has been uncovered in this region shows some of the original city grid pattern that was developed by Hippodamus in the 4th century BCE when Kos was established.
The agora was the social and commercial center of the city. Though much of the ancient city lies under modern day buildings, this archeological site is large and captures some of the city’s original grid layout around the agora. A number of displays with text in both Greek and English describe the site and provide a glimpse into life on Kos in the 4th century BCE.
Altar of Dyonisus
Not far from the agora were the excavated remains of the altar of Dionysus. It was built in the 2nd century BCE, was partially destroyed by an earthquake, was rebuilt and then the pieces were used by the Knights of St. John to build the Neratzia Castle.
This was an impressively sized temple at one time, but now only the foundations stones are left to inspire the imagination.
Casa Romana
A short block further on, but hundreds of years later historically was the Casa Romana. As the name implies, this restored building dates from the 3rd century ACE, when Rome ruled the roost. I read that this manor is similar to those found at Pompei and is full of frescoes and mosaics. Next door you can also find the ruins of a Roman thermal bath complex.
By this point in my day though, I was getting hungry and thirsty and hot so I chose to stop for a much needed food and drink break instead.
Roman Odeon
After a good lunch I went another few blocks further along and came to the restored Roman Odeon or theater which was built in the 2nd century ACE. It’s easy to imagine the Roman senators holding their public sessions here, loudly debating their particular point of view, or locals watching a musical contest on the stage.
Almost 2000 years later, this ancient auditorium is still used for modern cultural events.
Western Archeological Zone
Across the street from the Odeon is the Western Archeological Zone. This is a vast site with two wide, ancient lanes passing through the jumble of toppled rocks and half standing walls. One long section of road still shows the carriage ruts deeply imprinted into the large flat pavement stones laid down by Roman engineers long ago.
Unfortunately, there are no descriptive displays here, so it was not clear what I was looking at. There were clearly remnant of fashionable homes with mosaics and painted frescoes.
I had read that there were remains of thermal baths, a stadium, a gymnasium, and other structures that spanned a time frame from the 4th century BCE to the 5th century ACE, but it was hard to tell what each jumble of rocks had once been. I think this would have been one site where a guided tour would have been helpful to understand what I was looking at.
Archeology Museum
On the way back to the harbor, I popped in really quick into the Kos Archeology Museum. I did a quick walk through to see the many statues and mosaics that were discovered in Kos’ archeological sites and are preserved and displayed here.
The Asclepeion
About 4 kilometers from the harbor in the open countryside is another of Kos’ famous ancient sites, the Asclepeion. This was once a temple and healing sanctuary that was dedicated to Asclepius, the god of medicine, and also promoted the teachings of Hippocrates.
I did not have time to go to this site, but if you have time, you can walk there in an hour, or alternately, take a cab.
I took my time exploring the many archeological sites in Kos. It was a hot day, so I took quite a few breaks as well for drinks and snacks at the many cafes along the way, and of course a little window shopping as well.
Though Kos is a popular Greek beach destination, I discovered that it also has lots of interesting historical sights for those looking for other things to do in Kos.
Please note that my cruise was hosted by Running On Waves. All the content and opinions expressed in this post are my own.
Other stories about Greece you may like:
Sailing the Greek islands with Running On Waves: Release Your Inner Jackie O On a Luxury Sailing Holiday in Greece
Discover the best islands in Greece: Cruising in Style to the Most Beautiful Islands in Greece
Two days on the island of Hydra: My Lovely Two Days on Hydra Island
How to visit Mt. Athos: How to Visit Mt. Athos – Even If You Are Female
Thanks for visiting.
Rose
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