Last Updated on 09/03/26 by Rose Palmer
After spending ten days exploring southern France by car with my husband, I was ready to let someone else do the driving, cooking, and guiding. A weeklong cruise on the Rosa barge on the Garonne Canal was the perfect way to end an extended holiday in southern France.
The Canal de Garonne connects to the Canal du Midi in Toulouse. The two canals provide a continuous, controllable waterway from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic Ocean. When these canals were used for transporting goods, they eliminated as much as a month of travel time versus going around Spain and through the Strait of Gibraltar.
I had started my Southern France adventures with a weeklong barge cruise on a section of the Canal du Midi on the lovely Athos barge. Now I was experiencing the Gascony region on the Garonne Canal courtesy of European Waterways.
My Rosa Barge Cruise Review
The Rosa Barge
Originally built in 1907 with the flowing lines of a Dutch clipper barge, the Rosa transported goods until 1990, when she was transformed into a luxury hotel barge. Since then, she has undergone additional improvements to satisfy modern expectations.
The Rosa is owned by a proud Gascon whose love for the boat showed in every detail. Rosa’s public spaces were warm and inviting. The wood-paneled indoor lounge with its sofas and dining space was perfect for convivial conversations over cocktails and meals.
Up on the sundeck, a large table and chairs covered with umbrellas made it easy to relax with a cool drink while watching the scenery slip by. The front of the boat also held a hot tub for cooling off and the bikes that we used during the week.
There is no denying that our cabin was cozy, with a queen-sized bed taking up most of the space. But we only used it for sleeping, changing, and showering, so it was just fine. The en suite bathroom was roomier than I expected, and the included bath products were high-end.
Packing cubes made it easy to keep the closet organized while the luggage was stored under the bed. The in-room AC unit maintained a comfortable temperature, and the outlets and USB ports let me keep all my tech gear charged.
The four crew members were fantastic and took great care of us all week. The captain, a hostess, a private chef, and a guide all made sure that we wanted for nothing. One of my favorite things about a barge cruise is the friendly and attentive service.
A week on the Garonne Canal
I’ve taken a few barge cruises in France, and I think the Canal de Garonne is one of my favorites. It wasn’t busy – in fact, we were the only boat on the canal the whole time we cruised. Most of the route was also very shaded, with long allées of tall trees providing a dappled green backdrop.
Sunday – Day 1 on the Rosa – in Montauban
Right on time, Rosa’s guide, Valerie, picked us up at the FirstName Toulouse hotel, the designated meeting point. A quick 40-minute drive took us to Rosa’s mooring spot, where the rest of the crew welcomed us warmly.
The champagne welcome toast, accompanied by tasty nibbles, set the culinary tone for the week.
We spent our first evening on board settling in and getting acquainted with our fellow travelers. The Rosa can accommodate up to eight guests in her four staterooms, but on this cruise there were only six of us.
That evening’s dinner was our first example of Chef Mike’s culinary talents.
Dinner:
Entreé
Asparagus with pesto
Plat
Duck magret with beetroot tatin
Cheese
Fourme d’Ambert, Saint Felicien, Saint Maure de Touraine
Dessert
Chocolate delice
Wines
Olivier Faucher-Sancerre, Moulin Rouge-Haut Médoc
Monday – Day 2 on the Rosa – Montauban to Montech
Each morning, we started with a breakfast filled with delicious choices. I am not a big breakfast eater and was happy with yogurt, fruit, and a crispy fresh croissant with French butter and preserves, accompanied by a cup of tea. But there was also a selection of cheeses, meats, fresh bread, juice, and eggs made to order. For coffee drinkers, the coffee machine made excellent cappuccinos, lattes, espresso, or plain Americanos.
Touring Montauban
After breakfast, our driver and guide Valerie took us around Montauban’s historic city center. Since it was a Monday morning, almost everything was still closed, and we were the only ones walking out and about amid the narrow lanes.
Like its neighbor Toulouse, Montauban’s buildings were also made with red brick from the local clay. The heart of the city remains the Place National, a large, beautiful square encircled by shaded double-arched arcades.
The square and the surrounding checkerboard of streets may have been quiet at this hour of the morning, but I was sure that later in the day, the many restaurants, bars, and boutique shops would be busy with locals and visitors alike.
The city is also an open-air museum of street art (murals and sculptures) where each piece tells a story.
A visit to Fermier Farm
Next, we headed to the Fermier Farm, where we were introduced to their cows and the unique way that they get milked. The farm has an automated milking machine that does everything without human intervention.
The cows are free to enter the machine and get milked whenever they want, and as a result, get milked as often as four times a day. By letting the cows choose when they are milked, the farm has increased its milk production by more than double.
The tour then followed the milk through the cheese-making process, ending with a tasting of some of the cheeses made on site.
Back on the Rosa, the crew met us with a wonderful al fresco lunch.
Lunch:
Entreé
Tomatoes and mozzarella salad
Plat
Sea bar, samphire and fennel with salsa verde
Cheese
Bleu du Ramiers, Occitanie, Laous
Wines
Gris-Rose, Gerard Bertrand
This afternoon’s cruise was the first of our leisurely sailings down the Garone Canal. I also chose to bike alongside for part of the route, which I really enjoyed.
Dinner:
Entreé
Cheese souffle
Plat
Guinea fowl with mushrooms
Cheese
Ossau Iraty, Mimolette, Bleu des Pyrénées
Dessert
Pistachio torte with lemon cream
Wines
Parallele 45 Cotes du Rhone and Baron d’Ardeuil Buzet
Tuesday – Day 3 on the Rosa – Montech to Castelsarrasin
The Montech Inclined Plane
The morning started with a tour of the historic inclined plane, built in the 1970s to bypass five locks. When it was working, two large diesel engines pulled a wedge with enough water behind it to hold a boat. In this way, boats climbed the steep incline without having to go through the five locks.
In 2009, the water slope stopped working due to an engine malfunction. The site was abandoned for a time but has now been refreshed and turned into an interesting museum.
Wine Tasting at the Château Bellevue La Foret
Because it’s 5 o’clock somewhere, it is never too early to do a wine tasting, especially in France. We spent the rest of the morning at the Château Bellevue La Foret, learning about their winemaking process and tasting some of their excellent vintages currently in production, along with many that were bottled and ready to sell.
The winery owned the largest single-unit vineyard in the region and specialized in the local Négrette grape variety, which I enjoyed tasting. I also appreciated the wine-themed art displayed around the tasting room.
Lunch:
Entreé
Gazpacho
Plat
Salmon with lentils and fennel
Dessert
Berry cake with ice cream
Wines
Le Brise Marine, Château La Negly; La Clape
The afternoon was another slow and relaxing cruise with strolls and bike rides along the shaded towpath trail. After we reached the lovely town of Castelsarrasin, there was time to explore our surroundings before dinner.
Dinner:
Entreé
Gnocchi with mushrooms
Plat
Monkfish with curry sauce
Cheese
Bethmale, Bleu d’Auvergne, Cabecou
Dessert
White chocolate with miso mousse and apple sorbet
Wines
Bouchard Aîné et Fils, Saint-Véran; Villa de Golf, Pinot Noir
Wednesday – Day 4 on the Rosa – Castelsarrasin to Moissac
Since I was up early this morning, I went for a pleasant stroll along the canal towpath and built up a nice appetite for breakfast.
We began our day with a quick stop to look at the 1000 meter long Tarn aqueduct, which we would be cruising over later in the afternoon.
Next, we drove to the top of a hill with a beautiful viewpoint over the city of Moissac and the historic abbey that we would be visiting shortly.
The highlight of our day was a visit to the UNESCO-listed Abbaye St. Pierre de Moissac, where we had a private tour with a local expert. Built in the 11th century, the abbey is renowned for its highly decorated and well-preserved sculptural details on the church entrance and on the column capitals in the cloisters.
The abbey is still an important stop on the French path of the Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage route.
Lunch today was at the La Florentin restaurant next door to the abbey, where we had the opportunity to try some of the local cuisine. Gascony is home to foie gras, and this was the perfect opportunity to try some.
Once again, the afternoon was a slow cruise, with time to soak in the hot tub, read, or take a nap. I chose to bike the towpath again since the stretch approaching the Tarn aqueduct was shaded and especially scenic. I always find it interesting going over an aqueduct; crossing over a river on a bridge filled with water seems odd.
Once again, dinner was a memorable meal.
Dinner:
Entreé
Prawn bisque
Plat
Lamb with cauliflower
Cheese
Petit basque, Echourgnac, Bleu de Bresse
Dessert
Souffle Armagnac and plum ice cream
Wines
Château de Fontenille, Entre-Deux-Mers; Le Loup de Pic, Pic Saint-Loup
Thursday – Day 5 on the Rosa – Moissac to Pommevic
This morning’s excursion was my favorite of the whole week. A short drive took us back to Castelsarrasin for the weekly market. We went shopping with Chef Mike as he purchased ingredients for that day’s lunch and dinner.
The market was a colorful melange of fresh seasonal fruits and vegetables: tomatoes in all shades, lettuce shapes I didn’t recognize, yellow and red cherries, and a wide variety of sweet, juicy strawberries I could smell from ten yards away.
Cheese vendors displayed about 100 different varieties, butchers sold all manner of meats and sausages, and bakers offered freshly made, crispy baguettes, croissants, and pastries. This truly was shopping local at its best.
A midmorning cafe stop for cappuccinos and fresh croissants was a pleasant break before continuing with our market shopping spree.
Back on the barge, we started our cruise toward Pommevic, our mooring spot for the night. Lunch was a delicious combination of salads and other products from the market. Dessert was a simple bowl of three different types of strawberries with fresh cream. I was surprised that each type of strawberry tasted slightly different, yet they all tasted like strawberries.
Lunch:
Market lunch
Dessert
Fresh strawberries with cream
Wines
Tavel Rose
Once we were docked at Pommevic, our guide Valerie drove us to Château de Lamotte-Bardigues, where the current countess, Caroline, gave us a tour of the historic public spaces of her home. As a trained actress, she delivered a professional presentation, weaving a dramatic tale that tied the chateau’s former residents to important moments in French history.
Before heading back to the boat for dinner, we also walked around the nearby village of Auvillar. With its historic narrow cobbled lanes and circular covered market, it has been included in the “Most Beautiful Villages in France” listings. Sitting on top of a hill, the town also gave a commanding view over the Garonne River.
Dinner:
Entreé
Cured salmon
Plat
Pork filet mignon with leek cream
Cheese
Morbier, Bleu d”Auvergne, Chevre Cendre
Dessert
Peach and sorbet
Wines
Chateau de Fontenille, Entre Deux Mers; Marie Dupin, Nicolas de Bourgneil
Friday – Day 6 on the Rosa – Pommevic to Boe
Today started with another leisurely and scenic cruise along the shaded Garonne canal. Since this was my last opportunity, I biked along the canal towpath for six kilometers. Despite the distance, the ride was easy and relaxing and helped me build up an appetite for lunch.
Lunch:
Plat
Cassoulet and duck confit
Dessert
Panna Cotta with honey and apricots from Moissac
Wines
Le vin est une fête, Elian Da Ros
After lunch, we headed to the Domaine de Lapeyrade to taste Armagnac, France’s oldest brandy. Like cognac, Armagnac starts with wine, which is distilled and then aged in oak barrels.
This family-run operation is in its third generation, with vintages stored in oak barrels in their cellar going back to 1972. Guests can choose a year, and they will fill and seal a bottle with aged Armagnac from that year’s barrel right in front of you. I can’t think of a better souvenir from such a memorable trip.
We ended the day with a stroll through the historic and scenic center in nearby Nerac. The town is best known for the Nerac Castle, which is where the beloved King Henry IV lived for many years.
This evening’s dinner was extra special, not just because it was the captain’s dinner but also because one of the other guest couples was celebrating their 50th wedding anniversary. The crew went all out to decorate the barge and their cabin. Chef Mike also outdid himself with the menu and with the celebratory cake.
Dinner:
Entreé
Foie gras ganache with pain d’épices
Plat
Filet de boeuf
Cheese
Brillat Savarin, Roquefort, Valencay
Dessert
Anniversary chocolate cake
Wines
Les Charmilles, Sauternes; Cheval Noir, Saint-Émilion
Saturday – Day 7 on the Rosa – Boe
Sadly, this morning it was time to say goodbye to the Rosa barge and her wonderful crew and to the other guests. It was our interactions with everyone on board that made this week truly memorable. Along with all the good food and wine, there was a lot of joking and laughing all week, and a fun time was had by all.
I especially want to extend a big thank you to the crew for all their hard work and for making us feel like family.
From Boe, it was a 90-minute drive back to the hotel in Toulouse and eventually a flight back home. My month in southern France did truly end in the best way possible.
Other stories about my Rosa experience:
August 13, 2026 podcast: Cruising France’s Gascony Region: Farm to Table Luxury on the Rosa Barge – Big Blend Media
Links to all my cruising content can be found on my Experience Cruising page.
Other barge cruise stories:
Cruising on the Canal du Midi: My Athos Barge Cruise Review – Exploring France’s Canal du Midi in Style
Barge cruising in Italy: European Waterways La Bella Vita Cruise Review – Discovering Italy on a Luxury Barge Cruise
Burgundy canal barge cruise: La Belle Epoque Barge Cruise Review – Quiet Luxury in the French Countryside
Loire Valley barge cruise review: European Waterways Renaissance Barge Cruise Review – An Intimate Loire Valley Luxury Barge Cruise
River Thames barge cruise review: My Magna Carta Barge Review – History, Heritage, and Haute Cuisine on the River Thames