Last Updated on 07/07/26 by Rose Palmer
The Canal du Midi is the only one of France’s 3000 miles of canals that is inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Built in 1661, the canal connects to the Canal du Garonne and provides a continuous, controlled waterway connecting the Mediterranean Sea to the Atlantic Ocean.
I’ve wanted to cruise the Canal du Midi for a long time, so I was especially pleased when the ladies at French Waterways booked me on a weeklong cruise on the deluxe Athos barge.
My Athos barge cruise review
The Athos barge
The locks on the Canal du Midi are narrower than the locks on the other French canals I have cruised before. This meant that the barges also needed to be smaller.
The Athos was specifically designed and built for the Canal du Midi and began life as a commercial sand, grain, and wine barge in 1962. She was one of four sister ships, all named after the Musketeers: Athos, Porthos, Aramis, and D’Artagnan. Sadly, the other ships are no more, and she is all that remains.
In 1982, the Athos was rebuilt and changed careers to become a first-class hotel barge ideally sized for the narrower locks of the Canal du Midi. Since then, she has undergone other refurbishments to keep her up to date with modern travelers’ expectations.
There is no denying that the Athos was compact, though with only four cabins, or a maximum of eight passengers, the indoor and outdoor spaces were quite adequate. On my cruise, there were only five guests with five crew members taking care of all our needs.
When I was on board the boat, I spent most of my time on the sun deck. We ate lunch and dinner al fresco and enjoyed drinks or a soak in the not-so-hot tub while cruising along the canal. The hydraulic-powered awning provided plenty of shade and easily moved up and down so that we could fit under the low, 17th-century bridges.
The large hot tub was actually not hot and was very refreshing when the temperatures soared. The Athos also had bikes for those who wanted to cycle on the adjacent towpaths.
From the upper deck, stairs led down to the lower deck, where the indoor lounge spaces and the cabins were located. Couches, a large dining table, a stocked bookshelf, and a bar, combined with large windows, created a bright and homey feel. The classic wood-paneled interior made the room feel warm and cozy. This air-conditioned space was a pleasant retreat when the outside temperatures became just a little too hot to handle.
The four guest cabins made up the other half of the lower deck. I will admit that my cabin was on the petite side, but it had everything I needed: a queen-sized bed which could also be converted to two twins, closet storage, an ensuite bathroom, outlets for charging electronics, and the all-important air conditioning. My empty luggage fit easily under the bed. Other than showering and sleeping, I didn’t spend much time in my cabin.
The bathroom was also compact, but I have had smaller ones on bigger ships, and I was happy to have the en suite facilities, especially for those middle-of-the-night nature calls.
A week of Cruising the Canal du Midi
Our days quickly took on a gentle rhythm. After an early morning breakfast, an excursion took us to nearby sights of interest. We were back on board in time for lunch on deck and a relaxing cruise along the canal during the afternoon to our next mooring location.
Once moored for the evening, there was time for a walk or another quick excursion before a delicious dinner followed by evening drinks as we watched the sun set. This was indeed a very pleasant way to while away the days.
My cruise on the Athos was at the end of May, when the weather is usually quite pleasant. However, the area experienced an unusual heat wave during part of my week, with temperatures in the upper 90s by late afternoon.
Morning temperatures were comfortable, and this was when we did our excursions. While cruising in the afternoons, the shade from the awning, along with the slight breeze created by the boat’s motion, made the temperature very bearable. Dips in the cool “hot tub” also cooled us off, plus it was relaxing to watch the canal slip by while lazing in the water (with a drink was even better).
My cruise started in Marseillan and ended in Argeliers, but the opposite itinerary is done on alternate weeks.
Sunday – Day 1 on the Athos – at Marseillan
An easy train ride from the Marseille airport took me to Béziers. The pick-up at the Beziers train station, followed by the 45-minute ride to Marseillan, where the Athos was docked, went very smoothly. I was excited to see my home for the next week and to meet the crew and the other guests.
After a quick unpacking, I went for a stretch of the legs before dinner around the lovely Marseillan harbor. The cafes, bars, and ice cream shops that lined the waterway were filled as locals and visitors enjoyed the cooling evening breeze. Even though dinner was not far off, I was easily tempted by the colorful flavors in one of the ice cream cases.
Back on the boat, I got to know the other guests and the staff over a champagne toast and nibbles. Pilot/captain Pierre Yves (PY) guided us safely down the canal and under the many low bridges. Hosts Bella and Finn took care of all our needs and our rooms all week, guide/manager Matthew shared his expertise during each day’s excursion, and chef Sylvan created magic in the kitchen every day.
The day ended with the first of Chef Sylvan’s masterpiece meals, as the sunset cast a gentle pink glow over the harbour and our boat.
Dinner:
Entreé
Warm goat cheese salad with honey and almonds, served with Domaine Morin Langaran ADP Picpul de Pinet 2023.
Plat
Turbot steak with bell pepper cream, black rice, and broccoli. Served with La Liquiere AOP Faugeres
Cheese
Ossau Iraty and Camembert
Dessert
Caramelised Tate Tatin
Monday – Day 2 on the Athos – Marseillan to Portiragnes
From a colorful sunrise in Marseillan to a rosy sunset docked within sight of a vineyard, my first full day on the Athos barge on the Canal Du Midi was memorable and relaxing.
The day started with a visit and tasting at the renowned La Maison Noilly Prat vermouth house and ended with a dip in the Mediterranean at the Portiragnes beach.
In between, we had a leisurely cruise as we entered the Canal du Midi, with nap time, hot tub time, and punctuated by some excellent food and wine.
A tour of the Noilly Prat vermouth house
After a leisurely breakfast, we took a short walk along the harbor to the nearby historic Noilly Pratt Vermouth distillery. Our private tour and tasting took us through their complete vermouth production process.
Noilly Pratt came to prominence in the US when one of the first recorded recipes for a classic dry martini was made at the Knickerbocker Hotel in New York City in 1911 by bartender Martini di Arma di Taggia (shaken or stirred?).
Noilly Pratt was founded in 1813 as the first French dry vermouth company, and the process used today is much like the one developed in the mid-1800s. We learned that the vermouth starts by making wine from local white grapes. The wine is matured in large oak barrels for 8 months before being transferred to smaller oak barrels to age outdoors for another year.
Back inside in different oak barrels, the now amber colored, aged wine is macerated with a mixture of herbs and spices that give the Noilly Pratt vermouth its distinctive flavor. A special tasting allowed us to compare different recipes used to make the finished product.
Entering the Canal du Midi
Marseillan is situated on a lagoon that is on the Mediterranean coast. However, the entrance (or exit) to the Canal du Midi was not far.
Back on board, we started cruising across the Etang de Thau lagoon toward the entrance of the Canal du Midi. While we sailed, our chef served up a delicious lunch, perfect for a hot summer day.
Lunch:
Fresh, local oyster starter
Roasted ham with Madere sauce
Asian style tabouleh with fresh mint
Carrot salad with garlic, chives, and orange juice
Lamb lettuce with mustard cream
Strawberry panacotta
Served with Domaine de la Colombette 2023
Our first afternoon of cruising was pleasant and relaxing, and set the tone for the rest of the week. Reading a book, taking a nap, or just watching the scenery go by were the activities of choice.
A few hours later, we reached our scenic mooring spot in Portiragnes. Surrounded by large trees with views of a vineyard across the road, it was idyllic and peaceful.
Since we weren’t far from the coast, our guide Matthew offered us some beach time for a refreshing swim. No one turned him down! It was a cooling distraction before another delicious meal.
Dinner:
Entreé
Escargot served on a puff pastry with mushroom cream sauce
Served with Chateau Mire d’Etang AOP LaClape
Plat
Fillet of veal, crisp of salsify, roasted celeriac with mustard sauce
Served with Pierre Cros
Cheese
Roquefort and Beaufort
Served with Barrubio Muscat de St-Jean de Minervois
Dessert
Crepe Suzette flambees au Grand Mariner
Tuesday – Day 3 on the Athos – Portiragnes to Fonserannes
A visit to Pezenes
A quick half-hour drive from our mooring spot took us to the medieval center of Pezenas. We went early, before the stores opened and the heat kicked in. As a result, we had the narrow, medieval streets to ourselves as Matthew took us around and explained some of the sights.
After Pezenas became the political seat of the Languedoc region, the wealthy built huge mansions called “Hotels”. One of the prettiest and easiest to visit was the Hotel de Lacoste with its beautiful stone arched entryway and carved stone staircase.
Another evocative area was the Jewish quarter with its well-preserved streets and buildings. In fact, Pezenas has one of the best-preserved historic old towns in the South of France, which has given it protected status.
Pezenas has long been associated with artisanal craftsmanship, and this is still the case today. Shops and boutiques carried a variety of beautiful items that seriously tempted my pocketbook.
Back on the boat, lunch was another treat for the taste buds.
Lunch:
Chicken fillet with two mustard sauces
Potato salad with shallots, parsley, and cider vinegar
White cabbage with roasted almonds, chives, and mayonnaise
Salad with fresh herbs, wild asparagus, and French dressing
Saint Nectaire cheese
Served with Mire d’Etang AOP Languedoc
This afternoon’s cruise was both scenic and historic, as we passed through two of the Canal du Midi’s unique engineering structures designed to manage the steep elevation change.
When we reached the city of Beziers in the afternoon, a couple of locks raised us to the level of the Orb aqueduct. The aqueduct was built in the mid 1800s as a way to bypass crossing via the Orb River, which was unpredictable and sometimes dangerous.
From the aqueduct, we entered the most impressive engineering feat on the Canal du Midi, the Fonserannes Locks. This set of seven oval-shaped staircase locks raises a boat by a huge 71 feet.
Going through the locks was fascinating as the process took us up through two consecutive locks at a time. Once the gates were closed in front and behind us, the water gushed into the lock with tremendous force until the water level reached the level of the next lock.
Going through all seven locks took about 90 minutes, after which we reached the higher water level of the canal. We docked nearby for the night with views of the Bezier skyline and within an easy walk of the Fonserannes Locks.
Dinner was another lovely and delicious al fresco event as the sun set over the canal.
Dinner:
Entreé
Tartar of tomatoes with Burratina and tarragon dressing
Served with Chateau Grezan IGP Pays d’Oc Chardonnay
Plat
Fillet of lamb with thyme juice, Mediterranean vegetables, polenta, and fresh herbs
Served with Chateau Voulte Gasparets AOP Corbieres-Boutenac
Cheese
Cantal and Saint-Maure de Touraine
Dessert
Financier with red berries
Wednesday – Day 4 on the Athos – Fonserannes to Capestang
One of the things I love about a barge cruise is the flexibility it allows in the excursions based on a group’s interests. Our schedule today was supposed to take us to the seaside town of Narbonne. However, it was going to be another hot day, and the group on board was more interested in quiet, out-of-the-way spots rather than cities. So we drove to the quiet hillside village of Roquebrun instead.
Sitting on the Orb River and punctuated by a medieval tower, Roquobrun was picturesque and very quiet indeed. Our guide Matthew found a parking spot in front of the church, and from there it was a short, uphill walk to the entrance of the Mediterranean Garden, which has been planted around the thousand-year-old tower.
A circular loop took us uphill through the garden and then back down. The mild microclimate in this area has allowed the garden to grow over 400 warm-weather plant species from both the New World and the Old. From the garden, the views down into the valley were even more spectacular.
After exploring the gardens, Matthew drove us back down to the riverside beach for a cooling dip in the river. This was a popular recreation site with kayakers and swimmers. The water was a bit on the chilly side, but very refreshing.
We also enjoyed a delicious lunch here at the Auberge St. Hubert restaurant. Both the starters and the entrees were very generous portions and were delicious. I really loved the fois gras and the baked brie starters.
Back on the boat, we cruised for a few more relaxing hours. Once we docked, a short drive took us to the overlook for Etang de Montady, another uniquely historic French engineering project built by monks in the 13th century.