Exploring Japan’s Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park From Tokyo – A Look in the Mirror

Getting to the Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park from Tokyo was an easy day trip that I did on my own during my winter visit to Japan.

A Visit to Japan's Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park From Tokyo

Last Updated on 07/21/24 by Rose Palmer

Ever since I watched the PBS Nature episode about Japanese snow monkeys, I hoped that one day I might be able to see them in person. When I had the chance to visit Japan in winter with my husband, we took the opportunity to do a day trip to the Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park from Tokyo.

The experience with the snow monkeys was as engaging and entertaining as anything I could have wished for. In many ways, it was like looking in a mirror.

Japanese snow monkeys, or rather Japanese macaques, are native to Japan and are the most northern living nonhuman primates. They are found throughout most of Japan, except on the northernmost island of Hokkaido. But it is the monkeys that live in the Snow Monkey Park in Jigokudani, or Hell’s Valley, that have become the focus of the tourist imagination.

In winter, the monkeys travel down the mountain to bathe in the park’s hot spring onsen to warm up. The park rangers also provide the monkeys with food during the winter months when there isn’t much natural food for them to forage.

How to Get to the Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park from Tokyo

To get to Jigokudani Monkey Park from Tokyo we could have take an organized day tour during the winter months, but it was just a easy to get there on our own. We took two trains and a bus (the link for access to the park is below).

We opted to go on our own so that we could take our time and stay at the Snow Monkey Park as long as we liked. (With all the heavy road traffic in Tokyo, I doubt that taking a snow monkey tour would have gotten us there any quicker).

Having to take two trains and a bus may seem like a lot of effort, but Japan’s public transportation system is efficient, punctual to a fault, and easy to use. We picked up an early bullet train at Tokyo Station headed to Nagano City and in 80 comfortable minutes we reached Nagano station.

After changing platforms, we took the Nagaden train to Yudanaka station which was another 44 minute train ride. At the bus stop outside of the train station, a bus was waiting for the 10 minute train ride to the Snow Monkey Park entrance. Then it was another 25 minute walk to where the snow monkeys hang out and swim in the hot spring baths.

Getting to the Jigokudani Monkey Park from Tokyo and then going back to Tokyo on our own was easy, and just took time. This was definitely a whole day trip that benefited from getting a very early start.

This was a good option for the first or second day in Tokyo while we were still jet lagged and waking up early anyway. When I visit Tokyo, I like to get a hotel near Tokyo Station since that is a major transportation hub. We’ve stayed at the Marunouchi Hotel a number of times.

I used the detailed information on this website to figure out how to get to the Snow Monkey park on our own: https://www.snowmonkeyresorts.com/access/

Jigokudani area map

When we visited, it was a very unusually warm winter, so there was actually very little snow in the area. While this made the visit less photogenic, it made it much easier to hike the one mile path to their hot spring without having to deal with a slippery or muddy trail.

Seeing the snow monkeys

We caught our first glimpse of the monkeys in the trees as we approached their hot spring. They were amazingly tame and unperturbed by the presence of humans in their environment. They continued about their business of grooming, foraging and playing, and seemed only mildly interested in the big, ugly, two legged creatures invading their space.

The hot spring bath was surrounded by visitors, but that did not bother them in the least either. The monkeys were clearly used to seeing humans around them.

Since it wasn’t too cold, we stood there and watched them for a few hours. They exhibited extremely human behaviors with the various monkeys showing obvious personalities.

They played. They groomed. They got in, and out, and then back into the hot water. Some fought over what appeared to be prime real estate in the bath. Others just hung out and chilled and stared back at us.

The very young ones clung to their mothers. Then they got off and ran around chasing each other. Then they climbed back on their mothers to catch a ride. Little babies nursed as their mothers held them close.

There were clear hierarchies, with one or two of the males exhibiting dominant behavior, but overall, the troop seemed to get along, with its members understanding their role in the pecking order.

It was fun to photograph the monkeys and try to catch their personalities  on “film”.

This one was clearly not bothered by an audience.

snow monkey

Just chilling out.

snow monkey

This guy or gal hung out in this position for a long time, just relaxing, looking out at us the whole time and not bothered by much of anything.

snow monkey

There was time for some self grooming and a snack all in one.

Grooming was also a social activity.

snow monkeys

snow monkey

Hear No Evil, Speak No Evil and See No Evil grooming each other?

snow monkey

Why walk when your mom will give you a ride.

A mother’s love is the same with all primates.

But what really struck me was the soulful eyes – their “humanity” as  they looked back into my eyes.

After our visit, my husband mentioned to his Japanese business associates that we had been to the Snow Monkey Park and he was teased for doing such a “touristy” activity.

There are other monkey parks in Japan (such as the one in Arashiyama outside Kyoto), but this is the only spot in the world where you can see primates other than us indulging in a “spa-like” experience, purely for the benefit of enjoying a hot bath.

Genetically the macaques may be distant cousins, but watching them play and interact was similar to watching a group of kindergartners at recess. Have we really evolved that much more?

And I can’t help but wonder what they think of us?

 

For up to date information on visiting the Snow Monkey Park please visit http://www.snowmonkeyresorts.com/smr/snowmonkeypark/

 

Other Japan stories I’ve written:

All my favorite Japanese experiences: My Favorite Unique Japanese Experiences

All about my day on Miyajima Island: A visit to Japan’s Most Sacred Island – One Day in Miyajima

A day at the Hiroshima Peace Park: My Visit to the Hiroshima Memorial Peace Park – A Continuing Classroom for Peace

 

Thanks for visiting.

Rose

 

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